Dancing with the ancestors!

Posted on October 9, 2012 by perditawayfarer

Whilst in Prince   Albert, I danced with the ancestors in a unique and, for me, most touching way.  John McKenna invited me to the “Khoisan Jol” held at the Thusong Centre.

I was greeted by the hosts – two gentlemen very elegantly dressed in black with  hats and ties who ceremoniously shook my hand. I had been officially welcomed by non–other than well-known artist, Hennie Boshoff and Goliath Lottering, the mayor of Prince Albert. Slightly intimidated, I joined a colourful crowd of people seated in a semi-circle around some beautifully painted bins and a small stage.

Part of the town’s commemorative bin project these were made to be placed in front of the new centre, officially opened on the 14th of September this year. The one-stop centre will bring various national government departments to Prince Albert and surrounding areas. Kept in reserve for this special unveiling ceremony, each colourful bin depicts various aspects of the history of North End and the forced removals that took place there. One particular drum has snippets of a poem by Adam Small on it. This poem was read out as part of the proceedings in a beautiful resonant voice by a young man with a bright, clear face.

Hennie thanked everyone who had helped to make the “jol” possible and  acknowledged John McKenna, Rosetta, Izak and Jan as the mainstays of the bin project.  The Mayor expressed a fervent wish that this celebration become a regular event, drawing more and more people.

Formalities out of the way, the party began in earnest with a rap group from Oudtshoorn aptly called Digtelike Vry8 wowing us with music and lyrics so infectious it had people up and dancing in no time.  Those who were not brave enough to jive in front, danced in their chairs.  I must admit I was one of them. I swayed in my chair, tapping my feet, playing the observer (as I do sometimes in life) when I really wanted to jol with all the other dancers. There were people of every age and from all walks of life. In my defence, I was soaking up the sounds in awe of the wonderful Karoo sights.

Alfred Voetpad enjoying the Khoisan Jol

The most evocative visage belonged to Alfred Voetpad, an old man who wore a check blanket, red framed sunglasses, brown corduroy trousers and a jaunty Volkswagen cap – his weather worn face a map of all the Karoo paths he has travelled in his life. His obvious delight at being there was beautiful to see.  Fascinated by him, I tried to get a photograph of him without being too intrusive and crawled around snapping the bins from all angles as local music group, SlamJam, played catchy renditions of old folk and other songs.

It was colourful. It was vibey.  My heart danced in me, celebrating our Karoo ancestors.

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Changing moods

Posted on October 4, 2012 by perditawayfarer

It is really scary to think that almost two thirds of my planned stay here is over already. I have packed a lot of living into the past two weeks and rested too.

I suppose the greatest thing about this time has been being able to follow my own natural rhythm of waking up, moving when my body wants to move and eating when I feel like it.

I am feeling more rested and that was a big part of coming here.

The art festival of the weekend has left me with a strong urge to play with my paints – that is if they are any good any more.  I bought most of them almost five years ago whilst on a similar break in Paternoster. I was quite amazed when I left Bodhi Khaya and headed out past Stanford that the setting sun looked just like the one did as I approached the West Coast town of Our Father in 2008.  It was a great big glowing orb and it felt as if I was driving into the light. Almost identical feeling unless it was just my pesky mind playing tricks on me. Who cares? It was a wonderful way to start my adventure.

Reflecting on my experiences here compared to my stay in Paternoster I can see the changes that time and experience have wrought in me.

Image

As I approached Prince   Albert I remember thinking: “Why is it that I think I need a retreat?” Besides the fact that I live and work at a retreat centre there is a knowing that actually our whole life is a workshop, a retreat, the experience.  It’s that old, old cliché ..everywhere I go, there I am.

That said, I promptly answered myself: “That may be so, but you need to rest, replenish, restore and then , of course, WRITE!” I must add that David’s admonishment to fall back in love with myself also rang so true. And yes, I admit it: I do talk to myself ,sometimes constantly…. In my head mostly and even out loud.

Most of what I have been practising here, is being kinder to myself, more gentle.  I have not driven myself to write the blog just for the sake of writing it. I have rather just let it be born from my desire to share what is happening for me both in my external activities and in my experience of my life here.

One thing is for sure though, being kind to myself truely means making sure I have the time to write. Go figure?

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The road less travelled!

Posted on October 2, 2012 by perditawayfarer

Yesterday I decided to go to Oudtshoorn to do some shopping.  Just outside Prince Albert I saw the sign : “Oudtshoorn via Meiringspoort 106 km / Oudtshoorn via Swartberg Pass 67 km”.I had not put petrol into my faithful Sparky so I thought what the heck and headed for the SwartbergPass.

The doubt set in when I realized it was a very narrow gravel road but it was breathtakingly beautiful. Initially typical Karoo veld seamed the road with bright patches of vygies here and there – blotches of cerise, yellow and white. Then it was as if my sassy red Chevrolet (affectionately known as Sparky) and I were heading right into the mountain. Magnificent rocky slabs towered on either side of the twisting road – a wild array of colours:  browns and yellows and every where different shades of green. Vegetation, trees and aloes growing all the way up to the highest peaks in the tiny crevices and cracks.

Beautiful trees marked the flow of a clear, sparkling mountain stream. I could hear it and feel the cool air as I had rolled down my window despite the dust. I focussed on negotiating the twisty turns constantly looking out for oncoming traffic so that I could stop at one of the bays on the shoulder of the road provided to allow vehicles to pass one another.

 

Bright red and pink wild gerainiums lined the path and sure enough one of the many signs along the way read: “Malvadraai”.

As we wound our way up the pass I could see the bends and twists of the road and the packed stone construction of the road ahead. Markers and boards pointed to hiking trails and other conservation points of interest as we made our way ever higher through changing terrain. Construction workers at various places  greeted me with raised hands and smiles. I felt they might be a bit surprised to see a woman in a plucky red car travelling this infamous road.  Most of the few vehicles, we encountered were 4×4’s with men oozing testosterone as they barged past us as we politely waited.

Near the top of the pass there was a turnoff to Gamkaskloof better known as Die Hel with a dire warning that it was a two hour trip.

As I began to make my way down the other side of the pass in awe of the beauty I had passed and the blue and green patchwork valley that lay below I was moved to tears. The magnificence of the mountain pass and the kaleidoscope of vistas cannot be descibed in mere words.

I could not help thinking that though the road less travelled may be more challenging in some ways I hope that I will always have the courage to choose it. On the sraight and easy road it is easy to become complacent and miss the magic along the way.

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Small world, small town,big heart!

Posted on September 30, 2012 by perditawayfarer

My experience here in Prince Albert has been nothing less than magical. Every where I have gone I have been touched and surprised.  People talk to one another in this town.  They greet each other and even wave to strangers in the street.

I have found that they also share real information, details about their lives in an open way.  A lady in one of the stores told me about her granddaughter who has survived breast cancer.  Her pride and pain was tangible and I felt honoured that she chose to tell me.

When Jan and I visited the Olive Farm I was delighted to recognize Wendy from our recon weekend when we camped there.   She very proudly told me about her son, Gareth Williams, exhibiting his photographs for the first time.  It was so great because when I heard him acknowledged and thanked for taking photos of the opening and of the festival it felt as if I knew him already. Wendy’s pride made me think of my own daughter’s partner, Stefan Krynauw, a most gifted young artist who sold all his paintings at his first exhibition last year.  It seems Prince Albert is already working it’s magic on me because I even told a complete stranger about our family joke : “Kry nou ‘n Krynauw” when I overheard him saying to his wife that they really should have bought that William Kentridge piece many years ago.

Where else?

Michelle at Karoo Kaleidoscope (a wonderful treasure trove of stationary, art supplies and books in the main street) shared with me about her love of travel and how she truly feels at home in Prince Albert.  Also that her parents will be visiting from Ireland soon and it will be the first time that they see her new shop which she and her partner have obviously lavished so much care on.

And then there are the beautiful synchronicities of meeting people whose paths have crossed mine or who know people that I know.  So that I am in awe of how small the world truly is.  I went to Judy Maguire’s talk on Friday night and just knew instinctively that she probably knows my father from her University days in Pietermaritzburg. Lo and behold when I ran into her at the Jans Rautenbach Schouwburg it turned out he was one of her favourite lecturers and that she often went on fossil collecting trips with him/us!)

Another amazing gift was meeting Gunda Hardegen-Brunner.. We met a couple of years ago very briefly when we attended a retreat together at Bodhi Khaya where I now live and work. Reading her article about her beloved Michael in the “Prince Albert Friend” I noticed her name, but didn’t make the connection until I saw her photograph on the cover of her book in the weavery.

Small world, small town with a big and open heart.  I feel blessed to be here.

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Life is art!

Posted on September 29, 2012 by perditawayfarer

Life is art!

I had fun today!  Prince Albert is buzzing.  Visitors have arrived in droves for the Prince Albert Art Festival.  Some of them friends and acquaintances I have met along the way.

I spent most of my time today at the Jans Rautenbach Schouwburg, which is just down the road from where I am renting in De Beer Street.  It is a wonderful little theatre complex furnished with beautiful antiques, lovely artwork and memorabilia from the South African film industry.  I watched a number of films by and about artists. My favourite was an interview with Martha Rosler entitled:” An encounter with a Performance artist”.

I must admit I had not heard of Martha before and was delighted to hear her describe some of her more provocative performances. These performances of the 1970s are still considered milestones (according to the programme of the PArt Festival.) I just loved her authenticity and sense of humour.  A committed and outspoken feminist and a political activist to boot she called herself a child of the 60’s.  When asked what this meant to her, she said she was of a political generation – one that believed that they were able to change the world …and did just that. I love it…

I managed to slip away to check out the Saturday market at Die Dam were I bought lovely fresh vegetables. I enjoyed the vibe of some of the youngsters wearing anti-fracking t-shirts.  I devoured quite a few pancakes and missed my partner in crime immensely in the process.

Prince Albert Art Festival Emblem

The rest of the day was spent at all the exhibitions around town.  I even went into the Omkom Stoor – a name Jan and I find most intriguing. I am definitely going to ask someone why it is called that.  Besides some wonderful artwork by Diane McLean and Estelle Marais I was captivated by an amazing feature in the space. A Victorian bath/shower combination, which according to the lady on duty, belonged to Cecil John Rhodes, has pride of place. Lucky man I say!! A very nifty contraption it is. Although I must say my cottage has a delightful Victoria & Albert slipper bath too. I just can’t seem to bring myself to use it except as an absolute treat, because I am so aware of not wanting to waste water unnecessarily.

 Another visit to the Schouwburg was most informative and entertaining. William Kentridge introduced some of his fascinating short films this afternoon – awe-inspiring stuff!

I rounded off today’s arty adventures by attending JP Meyer’s brilliant lecture called “Preserved sharks and unmade beds”.  It was patently clear that this local artist is most popular and very modest. He was adamant about not being an academic or an intellectual, but he wowed the full audience with a well-researched and visually appealing talk on art.  It is from him I loaned the title of this blog :Life is art.  according to JP, our greatest creation is our life.  How true is that?

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Visitors

Posted on September 28, 2012 by perditawayfarer

Prince Albert is preparing for visitors.  Just like I did a couple of days ago when I heard that my playmate, Jan, was coming to visit.  He scored major Brownie points (not that we have such a thing, of course!) by making the 4 hour motorbike trip to see me in my new environment.

It was great fun showing him all the nooks and crannies and finding some new ones too.  We also enjoyed our favourite haunts from our first here trip visit a month ago when we came found the perfect place for my writing retreat.

We had a delicious nostalgic breakfast at the Prince Albert Country Store. The Country Store was my very first stop in town when I arrived on Sunday and is absolutely famous for carrot cake! I have yet to sample this treat. I settled for the apple crumble with thick clotted cream. Yellow and yummy .. from Gay’s dairy, no doubt!

Fred welcomes one to the Prince Albert Country Store

I love all the antiques in the shop and the permanent fixture: an ancient basset hound, Fred, immortalized on the bin outside the store.  He even has a welcome mat shaped in his image.  Very loved, he is … As is all the merchandise in the store. I was exceptionally good.  I only made one purchase – a beautiful soft khaki- coloured broad- brimmed sun hat lined with a Sanderson linen type floral fabric which stole my heart. The range is called “Cinnamon” and is made by local ladies.

Colleen and William Penfold have a beautiful outside courtyard with a typical Prince Albert stone and cement dam/reservoir and luscious vegetable garden with herbs and the most spectacular granadilla hedge. A gracious garden they call it on the board out front. So one eats in a perfect garden with cutlery and crockery reminiscent of days of yore…. Sigh… What more could a romantic girl ask for?

The breakfast was scrumptious and the service friendly and personal. The home made bread was so fresh – it didn’t need to be toasted. Fortified, we ventured further down the main road. We were appalled to find that some of the black bands protesting fracking in the Karoo, tied around the giant trees lining the main road, had been cut during the night.

We spent some time retying the bands – lamenting human nature. I could hear David saying:” There has to be space for those who don’t agree too”. Sure… I know, but it was so clear that great time and effort has gone into decorating the trees and even some buildings with black ribbon bows and wreaths with touches of black.  Anti-fracking slogans are painted in white on the bands – some of them very witty.  It seemed to us that the town donned its mourning and protesting rags for the visitors who have started arriving for this weekend’s Prince Albert Art Festival.  Luckily the town of Prince   Albert has things well organized – we soon saw an official meticulously re-applying the decorations in time for all the visitors.

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Befriending!

Posted on September 25, 2012 by perditawayfarer

As I made myself at home here, I was delighted to realize that houses have personalities and quirks, just as we do. A latch that needs to be opened a certain way, with the worn wooden side facing inwards, a gate with a sliding mechanism -tiny details make the place unique.  The same applies to a town, no doubt.  I continued my process of befriending my temporary home town quite early this morning.

It was a magical morning, strewn with friendly greetings from strangers and precious small gifts…a wild, prolific bouquet of longed for sweet peas on the sidewalk.  A glimpse of a plate – a country scene of a farm complete with cockerel and tractor. A blast from the past – the very same crockery I bought when farming in Tulbagh almost twenty years ago. The picture was faded, almost invisible, but it was the same one for sure.

Strange!  I just happened to see a brand new Massey Ferguson tractor on my way to the “Lazy Lizard” for breakfast. I smiled as I felt my pulse race for a second. How many women have this reaction to a red tractor, I wonder? I suppose maybe many more than I might imagine.

I thought too of letting go (at long last) of my farming boots.  In my mind’s eye, I saw Penny sitting in “Nina’s” kitchen, at Bodhi Khaya, showing them off.  She put lovely colourful shoelaces in them (just as I had).  I was glad I had passed them on when I saw how proudly she displayed them.

There are many other reminders of farming and also of days gone by. The town is steeped in its heritage with lovely reminders of its history displayed on the pretty rubbish bins I mentioned in my previous post. I was delighted to see that John McKenna is the driving force behind this quirky 2012 Commemorative Bin project.

This bin is just outside the Post Office. Taken with my phone camera.

I am renting a cottage from John’s wife, Sonja, during my stay here. They have made me feel so welcome with all sorts of little touches like homemade rusks left out by the kettle, milk in the fridge, wood laid out in the fireplaces and the best of all: an empty milk bottle with cap decorated with fun and funky cows so that that I can go and get fresh milk from Gay’s dairy when the long life stuff is done. Can’t wait!

Another gift was the notice at the Tourist Info Office stating that next week’s movie club choice is “Salmon Fishing in Yemin”. A film I have wanted to see for ages! So I have a date with myself for next Wednesday.

The name of the local community paper is “Prince Albert Friend”.   This brought back fond memories of “Haven’s Voice” and how I loved producing it. Also the knowing that I now LOVE writing this blog for my friends and family, as I gift myself with the time to befriend those parts of me I have neglected lately.

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Hello world! This is me!

Posted on September 21, 2012 by perditawayfarer

I am ensconsed at my computer at a writing desk that I plan to use a great deal during my retreat here in the quaint and beautiful Prince Albert.

I am most grateful to my friends(and colleagues) Siobhan and Chantel who set up this blog for me as I rushed to get things handed over so I could leave on this adventure. The thought of this loving gesture came up often as I found my way here.

You see, it is something I have been promising myself for a year now and kept postponing … The usual excuses and nonsense – telling myself I don’t have the time to figure it out… When the truth is, it makes me really happy to put my thoughts down on paper. And I have been told more than once that I write the way I talk. And when they (I forget who!!??) said it , it sounded like a good thing…an entertaining thing…hopefully a readable thing. Whether it is indeed  so, remains to be seen.

Back to Siohan and Chantel, thank you for this wonderful, loving gift and for putting up with my pre-annual leave jitters. I know I was not fit for human consumption for quite a while.. Really sorry. Promise to do my best to fall back in love with myself as King David prompted me to do as he said goodbye.

I hate goodbyes..so I didn’t say any. Much prefer to say :”Hello world, this is me”… happens to be the title of a song which has great significance for me. Go figure?

This is a lovely town. I remember the first time I came here to look for a place to retreat to during my leave, I kept thinking …this is a really pretty place. It came up that one could in all honesty write Prince Albert is a pretty town. So pretty that even the prison (located in the main street) is picturesque and the rubbish bins are painted in beautiful colours and designs – so they are pretty too!

I have lots more to write, but for now I think I will publish this my first blog and set about playing with the features and figuring out how to link all my beloveds.

Tomorrow I will have figured out a lot more I am sure.

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